Week 7

The leaves on our maple tree are covering our yard so whether we like it or not, October must be here. I spent the past week in San Francisco for work, and though it reminded me how much I love that city and it’s delicious food, it’s good to be home.

Next weekend (Columbus Day Weekend) I’ll be doing the Northern Grade Barn again, but this time I’m hoping to do it on Saturday. That means pickups might be a little different. I’ll give you the option to pick up Friday in Kingston, Saturday at the Barn in High Falls or if you want to pick up Saturday in Kingston, I can wrap loaves for you and leave them at my house.

I’ll remind and send more details about this the middle of next week.


This Week’s Loaf: Everything Wheat and Oat Porridge

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Two types to choose from this week! Both are a relatively new formula that I’ve been working on, so I’m hoping they come out as good as they have in the past (reminder: it’s a bread lab).

The Everything Wheat is my dream of turning an everything bagel into a sourdough loaf. It includes a good bit of local whole wheat as well as some barley malt (one of the things that makes a bagel taste like a bagel) and is coated in an everything seed mix (garlic, onion, sesame, poppy, salt. nigela).

Oat Porridge is based on a famous Tartine loaf. It is a classic whole wheat levain bread but with a healthy portion of cooked oatmeal mixed in. This gives the bread an amazing flavor and texture - it is creamy and rich and I think a classic fall bread.

Recipe: Heirloom Tomato Panzanella

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It’s probably the last week for good tomatoes at the farmers market before the frost comes so my approach is EAT THEM ALL. Panzanella is a genius use of old bread. I think a good panzanella starts with good bread and good tomatoes, and I’m giving you one of those so …

One of my favorite cookbooks of 2017 is Six Seasons by Joshua McFadden. Not only does it have a ton of amazing recipes but some of the tips/ideas are now fully part of my cooking. My favorite is the way he dresses salads. Instead of making a dressing, the layers on the dressing components one at a time, tasting at each stage. I’ve found this to be super successful for creating a bright and well-balanced salad, especially when you only have a few ingredients, like here.

Ingredients

  • 4 Thick slices of bread
  • A variety of heirloom tomatoes (colors and sizes) about 4–8 depending on size.
  • A handful of fresh herbs (basil, mint, chives)
  • 2–3 Small scallions
  • Juice of a lemon
  • Olive oil

Heat the oven to 400F.

Take a large sheet pan and tear the bread into large irregular chunks. Toss the bread with about a tbsp of olive oil and spread on the sheet pan. Place in the oven and bake until dry, checking after the first 15 minutes, and rotating every 5 minutes (about 20–30 minutes total depending on how old the bread is).

Core the tomatoes and chop into large chunks and place in a large bowl. Trim and cut the scallions into very fine rings and toss with the tomatoes. Add the toasted bread to the bowl.

Coat the tomatoes and bread in about a tbsp of lemon juice and a tsp of salt and toss gently with your hands. Taste it - it should taste balanced and really good as is. Adjust with salt and pepper and more lemon juice as needed. Add the herbs, drizzle in about 2 tbsp of olive oil and toss again. Taste again, adjust the seasoning and eat as quickly as possible. This is not something you can save leftovers of.

Now Playing: Mdou Moctar - Sousoume Tamacheck Spotify

I was lucky enough to get to see Mdou Moctar and his band at BSP earlier this week. I’ve been a big fan of Taureg music for a while, but this was my first chance to see some in person and I was blown away. Mdou’s music can be traditional at times but then can also shift to full Jimi Hendrix-esque solos while still referencing the desert melodies. I’ve been listening to this new album and all the other Sahelsounds records all week.

Aaron Quint